Step off your deck into the lagoon

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The ship noses along the pack ice in the flat Arctic light, and then someone spots it: a polar bear, cream against the white, lifting its head to watch you pass. This is the high Arctic, one of the last places on earth to find them truly wild.
Svalbard sits about halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole, a fragile Arctic wilderness of glaciers, walrus, and seabird cliffs, so the bears are one part of a much larger wild.